Bret Easton Ellis and the Enduring Style of 'Less Than Zero'

In 1987, Bret Easton Ellis’s novel Less Than Zero introduced a generation to the decadent world of shiftless Angelenos – Clay, Blair, and Julian – and its influence was quickly captured on screen.

A Time Capsule of the 1980s

The film adaptation, while controversial, remains a potent time capsule of the era’s style, characterized by big shoulders, skinny ties, and prominent designer names. This aesthetic is now being revisited with Ryan Murphy’s adaptation of The Shards.

Ellis’s work consistently explores the “money-hungry Designer Industrial Complex” that defined the 1980s, reflecting his understanding of consumerism’s importance in American life. References to brands like Polo Ralph Lauren, Armani, Calvin Klein, and Gucci are presented almost casually, reflecting the era’s expectations of wealth.

Less Than Zero’s New York Times review noted, “They spend a truly astonishing amount of time shopping, going to the hairdresser, and worrying about such pressing questions as ‘are my sunglasses crooked?’”

The film, starring Andrew McCarthy, Jami Gertz, Robert Downey Jr., and a young Brad Pitt, was costumed by Richard Hornung, whose work includes Patty Hearst and Natural Born Killers. Hornung aimed to capture a “lived-in sense of privilege” through Blair’s power suits, Julian’s expensive demeanor, and Clay’s retro lapels.

Set designer Barbara Ling observed that the abundance of modern art in the homes depicted in Less Than Zero was presented without genuine appreciation, often purchased for investment. While fashion today is less detached than in Ellis's L.A., the style captured in Less Than Zero is experiencing a resurgence.